Calçotada: Spain’s Bucket List Foodie Experience
In the region surrounding Barcelona, there is a special foodie experience that occurs each winter when the spring onions known as ‘calçots‘ are harvested and ready to be devoured in a heaping pile.
Sweet char-grilled then doused in sauce, these onions are as massively popular as they are messy. Eaten with a bib and plastic gloves provided by the restaurant, this feast is not the time to wear your new white top. It’s pretty much a guarantee that dripping sauce and black charred onion shells will be flung every which way. Not to mention the hearty portion of red wine usually paired the meal!
In addition to the onions, the meal is typically served with a huge pile of grilled meats and sausages.
I was fortunate enough to be brought to a beautiful calçotada location in the countryside by one of my local Catalan friends who grew up coming here as a kid.
This calçotada was off the usual tourist path and we heard no English being spoken like you might in Barcelona. The experience was totally unforgettable and I never would have found it on my own. Thanks Jordi!
Restaurant Can Borrell
“The beautiful Can Borrell farmhouse is surrounded by a landscape of woodland and fields that help us to rediscover nature and gives the impression of being far away from the city, although it’s just 20 minutes from Barcelona.“
Check out this great article about this amazing Catalan tradition.
Calçotadas: Each January until April
It’s hard to miss the calçotadas happening all over Barcelona each winter. They are extremely popular. But if you get the chance, I recommend getting out of the city and experiencing one in the country.
How To Get To Restaurant Can Borrell From Barcelona
- By car along the Velòdrom d’Horta road, BV-1415 (30 min), until al Km-3.
- By public transport take the FGC trains to Sant Cugat station, from here you can walk to Pl.Rotary and then take the B06 forest track to the restaurant, passing by Pi d’en Xandri.
- From San Cugat you can go by foot or bike from Pl.Rotary.
- From Cerdanyola del Vallès it’s a 15 minute drive along the Cerdanyola en Horta road, followed by a track that takes you to the restaurant.
The restaurant is a little tricky to find but I suggest taking the train then following Google Maps along the paved walking path. The walk is beautiful and the experience is truly worthwhile.
When you arrive, you’ll be served your own heaping plate of onions but at most calçotada spots, it’s unlimited.
So if you have the room, don’t be shy and order another plate!
With one hand, you’ll pick up the onion at the top. With your other hand, you’ll grip the bottom and yank the charred black outside of the onion off and toss it in the communal bucket on the table. They are delicious!
You can see more photos of how the calçotada is prepared in their video below:
Participating in my first Calçotada back in March 2020!
Looking for a great 3 day itinerary for Barcelona?
