Places In Bosnia and Herzegovina
That Left Me Speechless

Places In Bosnia and Herzegovina That Left Me Speechless

During the summer of 2019, we took a spontaneous and totally unplanned trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you follow me on Instagram, you might remember how we hopped on a last minute public bus in Dubrovnik, Croatia.

And less than 4 hours later we found ourselves in the beautiful and completely underrated European city of Mostar.

Places In Bosnia and Herzegovina

Sadly during the 1990’s, Bosnia and Herzegovina was entangled in war, genocide and many horrific cases of ethnic cleansing. For a decade, tourism ceased entirely in this beautiful country.

But more than 20 years after the Yugoslav Wars and the Siege of Sarajevo, it’s surprising how many people think the country is still in conflict and unsafe to visit. This couldn’t be further from the truth!

Not only is Bosnia and Herzegovina safe to visit again, it is full of places that are sure to leave you speechless.

So in no particular order, here were the top sites that made my time in Bosnia and Herzegovina so unforgettable!

Mostar

We began our time in Bosnia and Herzegovina by visiting the historic and striking Mostar.

Full of exemplary Islamic architecture and beautiful, towering mosques, you simply cannot come to this country without visiting it’s prettiest city!

Koskin-Mehmed Pasha’s Mosque

This beautiful mosque is located in Mostar and has the most perfect view overlooking the historic district.

The best time to visit this mosque is right during golden hour. Standing high on the minaret, the whole town of Mostar will shimmer in the fading sunlight.

As sunset breaks across sky, you’ll be in the perfect position to to see the sun setting over the hills and lighting up the river. It truly looks like a scene from a fairytale.

ADDRESS: MALA TEPA 16, MOSTAR 80807, BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA

KOSKIN-MEHMED PASHA’S MOSQUE QUICK FACTS

•  €6 entry fee
• Non-muslims welcome to visit
• Skirt and scarf provided for modesty (shoulders, knees etc. must be covered!)
• Small, constricted space at the top
• Must be able to climb stairs to reach the top lookout from the minaret
• Not handicap accessible
• Go right at opening or closing to have the lookout point to yourself

Stari Most (the Mostar Bridge)

Beautiful and spectacular, this historic bridge was bombed and destroyed in the war. However, following the war it was meticulously restored to its former glory.

Now Stari Most stands tall again, the symbol of Mostar.

Dating back to 1664, the local tradition of jumping off the bridge began. As the story goes, a 16-year old boy must jump as a right of passage because if he doesn’t, his life will turn out to be a failure.

If you visit today, you’ll see crowds gathering as the jumpers prepare to make the astonishing leap from the iconic, historic bridge to the river below.

Neretva River

My favorite view of the iconic Mostari bridge can be found from the Neretva River below.

Get there early in the morning and you’ll have the view point and the bridge nearly to yourself.

If you go during the day, there will be small boat rides you can take down the river to get a clear picture of the beloved bridge.

Mostar’s Old Bazar Kujundziluk

The bazaar located right along the river is filled with beautiful shops showing artwork, trinkets, tea sets and gifts. I don’t know which is more scenic, the quaint shops or the scenery surrounding them.

Stroll along the river, shop for souvenirs or stop in one of the many cafes overlooking the infamous Mostar bridge.

Old Bridge Museum (Muzej Stari Most)

Since you’ll of course be visiting the bridge during your time in Mostar, I recommend also paying a visit to the Old Bridge Museum which opened in 2006. The museum displays pictures of the bridge from during the war and it’s very powerful to see!

The museum is located inside a side tower of the bridge and only costs a few euros to enter. You will see signs for the museum on either end of the bridge.

Ali-Baba – Mostar’s Cave Bar

While most of the places in Bosnia and Herzegovina on my list have a lot of cultural or historical significance, I had to include Ali-Baba for nightlife! This bar is a totally unique experience tucked inside a cave in old town Mostar.

We came to Ali-Baba one night when it was raining. While we drank and danced, we watched the rain pour down at the front of the cave while we stayed warm and dry inside. It was so enchanting and romantic.

The Capital City Sarajevo

The first spots I suggested can all be found in Mostar. After a few days, we traveled to the capital city of Sarajevo via public bus. It took 2 hours arrive and was very simple to use.

Make sure you pay a visit to Sarajevo during your time in Bosnia and Herzegovina, it’s a fascinating city that has played such an important place in our history. (Did you know it’s where WWI began?)

Museum of War and Genocide Victims

Please do not come to the capital city of Sarajevo without visiting this museum. It’s very difficult to process and digest but it’s so important that the history is preserved and the stories of the victims aren’t forgotten. Especially if you don’t strong understanding of the Yugoslav Wars this museum is a great place to start.

The museum is laid out in a way that will walk you through a timeline of the violence endured here and how the tragic events came to pass.

It’s equal parts heartbreaking and powerful.

Open daily 9am -10pm

Tunnel of Hope- Sarajevo War Tunnel

The Sarajevo War Tunnel was the only connected between the besieged Sarajevo and the outside world from July 1993 until late February 1996. For over six months, locals dug underground using pickaxes and shovels. On july 30th, the tunnel was finally complete which allowed an outlet to the world.

It was thanks to the tunnel that Sarajevo residents could get food and supplies snuck into the city during the longest-running siege of any city in modern history.

Throughout Sarajevo, there are a number of war tours you can book that will include a stop at the Tunnel of Hope.

Part of the original tunnel has been turned into a museum, allowing visitors to walk through part of the original underground tunnel.

The official website a little difficult to navigate but can be found here.

Assassination Site of Arch Duke Ferdinand

I highly recommend joining a walking tour when you arrive in Sarajevo. From the siege of the city during the Yugoslav War to the beginning of World War I, Sarajevo is packed with world history.

On June 28th, 1914 Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria and his wife Sophie were shot to death by a Bosnian Serb nationalist during an official visit to Sarajevo. The killings were the main catalyst for World War I.

The spot is located on Franz Joseph Street with a memorial plaque. We stayed at a charming and affordable Airbnb just around the corner. But to get a full understanding of the events that occurred in Sarajevo, I recommend booking a walking tour and watching a few documentaries before you go!

Roses of Sarajevo

A Sarajevo Rose is a special kind of memorial found in Sarajevo. When the city was under siege, explosions left scars in the concrete that seemed to almost resemble a floral pattern. Later these marks were filled with red resin. There are approximately 200 roses throughout the city and each one marks the locations where at least three people were killed.

It’s a tragic and beautiful memorial to all the innocent lives lost in Sarajevo.

Again, I recommend joining a walking tour right when you arrive and watching documentaries before your trip to better understand the complex history in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Bascarsija- Sarajevo’s Old Bazaar

Bascarsija was built in the 15th century when Isa-Beg Isakovic founded the town. This old city center in the capital city is the historical and cultural center of the entire city.

Be sure to leave an afternoon free to simply wandering through this bazaar.

Sarajevo Cable Car on Mount Trebević

I highly recommend you take a cable car ride at golden hour so you can catch sunset from the top of Mount Trebević overlooking beautiful Sarajevo below.

It’s incredibly scenic!

Dubrovnik, Croatia (via a day/weekend trip)

Alright, this one technically isn’t in Bosnia and Herzegovina but it’s so nearby by that if you’re visiting the country, you may want to consider also going to Dubrovnik at this time!

Read: 15 PHOTOS TO PUT DUBROVNIK ON YOUR BUCKET LIST

These were the places that stand out in my mind from our time in Bosnia and Herzegovina, places I have thought about over and over again since we traveled this lesser-known and appreciated European country. But I would love to hear if you have a favorite spot! Let me know in the comments.

Other famous Bosnia and Herzegovina sites to include on your itinerary:

• Blagaj Tekija: 600 year old monastery tucked in a cliff
• Kravice (Kravica) Waterfall
• Una National Park: one of the most biodiverse areas in the Balkans
• Banja Luka: 2nd largest city home to 1,000 charming cafes and a medieval fortress to explore
• Jajce: walled city home to stunning waterfall

Group Tours with TourRadar

Because we went on a spontaneous, last minute trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina, we weren’t very well planned and ended up missing some sights I would have loved to have seen such as Blagaj Tekija!

If you want to make sure you hit all of the key sights and get to learn about the history in-depth, I recommend booking one of the guided multi-day tours on TourRadar.

More on Bosnia & Herzegovina:

• MOSTAR: YOUR NEXT BUCKET LIST DESTINATION
• BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA: AN UNEXPECTED JOURNEY THROUGH A COUNTRY I NOW LOVE
• THE MOST INSTAGRAMMABLE PLACE IN MOSTAR

Follow along on the adventure…

The post Places In Bosnia and Herzegovina That Left Me Speechless appeared first on The Wanderlust Rose.

Instagrammable Mostar Instagrammable Mostar

Mostar: a fairy tale town in Bosnia & Herzegovina

Before traveling to Bosnia and Herzegovina, I knew so little about the country. And I knew even less about a little town called Mostar. But this magical town with a dark history of violence and war should not be skipped on a trip through the Balkans!

Especially if you are looking to take stunning photographs. Mostar is a travel photographers dream com true!

Mostari Bridge

Everyone knows the infamous Mostari Bridge is an excellent place to take photos. It’s the icon of Mostar.

But if you try to take pictures in mid day, the bridge will be packed with tourists, locals and bridge divers alike!

The most magical time to experience the historic bridge is in the early hours of the morning or late in the evening once all the day tours have left again. It’s in these hours, the early morning or late evening, that you can have the city to yourself!

There’s no shortage of amazing views in Mostar!

Any restaurant or cafe you dine at will offer stunning views of Mostar! There simply isn’t a way to make this town look bad.

The scaling Ottoman architecture sends minarets soaring high above the lush greenery.

The constant sound of babbling water can be heard as the Neretva river winds through the heart of town, offering gorgeous views of the sunlight sparkling on the water.

The Most Instagrammable Place In Mostar:
Koskin-Mehmed Pasha’s Mosque

While Mostar is beautiful from any cafe, winding cobbled street or over pass- no view is quite as striking as standing on the high minaret from Koskin-Mehmed Pasha’s Mosque during golden hour. With a perfect view of the Mostari Bridge, the Neretva river and the town of Mostar tucked in the mountain side, it’s easily the best view of Mostar. Perhaps even all of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Address: Mala Tepa 16, Mostar 80807, Bosnia & Herzegovina

Koskin-Mehmed Pasha’s Mosque Quick Facts

•  €6 entry fee
• Non-muslims welcome to visit
• Skirt and scarf provided for modesty (shoulders, knees etc. must be covered!)
• Small, constricted space at the top
• Must be able to climb stairs to reach the top lookout from the minaret
• Not handicap accessible
• Go right at opening or closing to have the lookout point to yourself

More on Mostar? Keep reading:

• MOSTAR: YOUR 2020 BUCKET LIST DESTINATION
• BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA: AN UNEXPECTED JOURNEY THROUGH A COUNTRY I NOW LOVE

Shop my Mostar look:

The post The Most Instagrammable Place in Mostar appeared first on The Wanderlust Rose.

Standing in Dubrovnik with hardly any set travel plans for the week to come, James casually mentions we could take the bus across the border to Bosnia and Herzegovina. I’m instantly intrigued but wracking my brain, I can’t for the life of me think of what “tourist things” people do there. It’s a country I hardly know anything about, which truthfully made me want to visit it all the more. No previous expectations or preconceived notions, just pure discovery!

*And that’s why I’ll happily read travel blogs on a destination but avoid YouTube videos like the plague! I want to discover it myself first hand, thank you very much. A few helpful hints from a blog post is all I need leading up to a trip.

“So what do you think? It’s only a few hours by bus to cross the border.” He says.

“Absolutely, lets go.”

So we buy the tickets and we’re off the next day- booking Airbnb’s on our way to the bus station. Ahhh, nothing like totally spontaneous, unplanned fun. Here we go!

Our first destination: Mostar

Truthfully, all I knew of Mostar was a beautiful, historic bridge I had seen on Instagram. The caption on the photo had described Mostar as a “fairy tale” town. I would soon find out, it was so much more.

The bus rolls in after dark.

We exit at the bus station and walk the quiet streets to our Airbnb. Upon our arrival we are greeted by a wonderful, friendly host. He informs us, if we aren’t too tired from our travels, there is a bar inside a cave just across the famous bridge. Tempted to crawl in bed and catch up on sleep, we of course drop off our things, change and promptly head off to find this cave bar! In the pouring rain, might I add. Laughing and racing through the rain- we are befriend by a stray dog who follows us the rest of the night. (And finds us again the next day. Oh my heart!!)

Mostar at night

As we enter into the old town district, we hear live music and see people eating massive portions of the local Bosnian cuisine. One young couple waves us over.

“We remember you from the bus earlier- join us!”

We suddenly find ourselves on a double date for the evening with another American woman and a British man. They had far more food than they could possibly finish between the two of them.

“All this food was only €15, help yourself!”

Starving, we dive into our first taste of Bosnia cuisine. It. Was. Delicious. Fresh pita, stuffed peppers… We ate until we couldn’t fit any more in our bellies- the four of us still unable to finish off this platter allegedly for two. (And I thought America had big portions!)

James buys everyone a round of wine and the four of us all set off to find this cave bar. (Stray dog happily following along beside us!)

Mostar’s cave bar

We hear the music coming from the cavern before we can actually see it… the crowd is small given that it’s a Sunday. But regardless, a night of dancing ensues! Meanwhile a storm rages on at the mouth of the cave. The scent of the rain, the sound of thunder and the sight of lighting were all visible while we danced. It was nothing short of magic.

What I leaned the next day was that most people just book a day trip to Mostar. They arrive just before lunch and are gone right after dinner. The streets are relatively full in the afternoon with tourists- but if you’re out early or late at night, you can have Mostar to yourself. And in those hours, it feels really indescribably special. It felt like I was back in Venice, Italy before sunrise when I had the whole city to myself. Little cobblestone streets, the high arching bridge, the water babbling below… truly a fairy tale brought to life.

The morning brought the most extravagant breakfast. With picturesque views of the river, we were treated to customer service that was above and beyond anything we expected. All for the price of cheap, fast-food back at home.

So instead we dined on a silver platter of local cuisine, drank apple juice out of wine glasses and felt unusually fancy for two people living out of their backpacks at the moment.

Mostar’s Bloody History

But that afternoon, I discovered the full story of Mostar. I admit I was ignorant to it’s bloody history and recent destruction in the 1990’s.
Standing inside the Museum of War and Genocide Victims, I felt like the floor had been pulled out from underneath me. I knew vaguely of a war in Bosnia but failed to realize it was just over 20 years ago. In another words, during my lifetime. Yet sadly, I had never learned about it in school.

I didn’t realize. I had no idea. The horror, the killings, the genocide, the torture and the extermination camps, even AFTER the Holocaust when people swore “never again.”

The beautiful bridge I had fallen in love with the night before was actually a recreation because the original dating back from 1557 was bombed to complete destruction, along with the rest of old town.

The disintergration of former Yugoslavia

I felt foolish and silly for not being more informed on the disintegration of Yugoslavia, thinking Mostar was just some “cute fairy tale town.” Now I looked back on everyone we had met thus far in a new light. Our Airbnb host- had he too dodged snipers on his way to school? Our charming, friendly server at breakfast- had he survived the constant bombings and foot shortages? How many members of his family did he lose? How many friends?

Suddenly I was perceiving everything differently. My eyes felt open and my heart felt heavy. Admitting my own ignorance on this topic, I committed myself to learning as much as I could about it while I was here.
We walked every war exhibit and gazed upon every heartbreaking photo in the gallery next to the bridge. Sadly, we watched the news clips- even footage of the beloved Mostar bridge crumbling on YouTube. It was all there- such recent history! Not something you read about in history books- but a war you could literally watch on YouTube. It scared me, it confused me and I wanted to better understand.

That night we stood from the high minaret of a mosque and watched the sunset over this idyllic town. With how peaceful and calm it was, it was hard to imagine Mostar was ever full of terror, screams, weapons and death.

The following day we rose early to be the first ones to river. We stood, soaking in the sights of the bridge one last time before continuing on to Sarajevo, the capital city, with an equally dark history.

Visting Sarajevo

As we arrived in Sarajevo, we checked into our Airbnb. It happened to be located one block from where Arch Duke Ferdinand was assassinated, sparking the beginning of World War I.

Again we found a city of so much beauty being held in stark contrast to its bloody, brutal history. As James had work to do, I purchased a copy of The Siege of Sarajevo at a nearby bookstore. Sitting down with Bosnian coffee at a cafe in old town, I began to educate myself.

13,952 killed in Sarajevo alone
Duration: 4 years or 1,425 days
350,000 people enclosed in the besieged city
Over 12,000 children injured

As I looked at all the smiling faces in the cafe, I would have never known what these people had been through .

The following day, a young man invited us in for coffee and shared with us what it was like to attend school during the siege. Ducking from snipers on his way to class- it was hardly your typical childhood. There was never quite enough food. Trading cigarettes became the most valuable currency. And his father was off fighting in the resistance…. 4 years stretched on like that, with no way in and out of the city.

Over the next two days, we learned everything we could about this beautiful city with it’s troubled past. We visited Sniper Alley, the site of the Sarajevo breadline massacre, crawled through the underground war tunnels and took a tour of the sniper’s lookout. It was a hauntingly unforgettable day.

War Trials

Just recently, as late as 2016, the people responsible for the crimes against the people of Sarajevo, Mostar and the Srebrenica massacre, have gone to trial. Many have been convicted. The trial gained national attention with one war criminal drinking poison in court upon his sentence being upheld.

Tourism Helps To Rebuild

Sarajevo is a lovely place to visit. Please go and learn for yourself first hand. Of course visit the shops, restaurants and ride the scenic cable car up to the mountain. But please include a visit to the museum on the Srebrenica genocide and walk through the Tunnel of Hope. Go see Sniper Alley for yourself. Stand up in the hills where the Serbians camped out- tormenting and killing the people of Sarajevo. Help share the story so it is never forgotten.

Keep Reading: MOSTAR: YOUR 2020 BUCKET LIST DESTINATION

Planning a trip to Bosnia & Herzegovina can be daunting but is a lot easier with a guided tour. Check out the tours on TourRadar here!

The post Bosnia & Herzegovina: an unexpected journey through a country I now love appeared first on The Wanderlust Rose.

Mostar: a picturesque fairytale town with idyllic views around every corner.

Looking to plan an upcoming trip? This stunning city is a lesser known gem of Europe. Located in Bosnia and Herzegovina, Mostar is the ideal stop along a Balkans road trip.

From towering minarets to glorious (and cheap!!) local cuisine, a trip to Mostar should happen sooner rather than later, before it explodes as a tourist hot spot!

It has all the charm of Venice, the affordability of Bali and quaint cafes like France!

Plus it’s a photographer’s dream to photograph. Just look at the stunning landscape….

All the charm and quaintness aside, it has a very dark and bloody history.

Only as recently as the 90’s, it was war-torn, bombed by Serbian nationalists and fell victim to genocide as Yugoslavia disintegrated.

While the city has rebuilt and is peaceful again, the war is such an integral part of Mostar’s identity.

Don’t take a trip here without paying a visit to the Museum of War and Genocide.

This heartbreaking tribute helps to inform us what exactly went on during the recent war because so many, myself included, heard so little about it.

Bridge Divers

And of course, everyone wants to see the iconic Mostar bridge! During the afternoon it will be quite crowded with tourists and people jumping off into the river below. (Yes really!)

It’s a tradition in Mostar. And because of this, the bridge divers will attract large crowds to see their death-defying leaps.

Standing a top the bridge, they dive into the Neretva river below as the crowds look on.

Pro tip: Wake up early to have the bridge to yourself

If you’ve followed my previous adventures, you know I always advocated for waking up early and seeing a popular tourist spot before the crowds descend.

This bridge is particularly lovely in the morning when the town is still quiet. And it’s much easier to take photos without the crowds around!

Sunset from Koskin-Mehmed Pasha’s Mosque

Easily the best views of the old bridge can be found from high on the minaret Koskin-Mehmed Pasha’s Mosque.

If you walk through old town, you will see signs advertising it. For a small fee, you can visit the mosque.

Make sure you are dressed appropriately. If not, they will also provide you with a scarf and long skirt to cover yourself free of charge!

A trip to Mostar should soar to the top of your travel bucket list if it hasn’t already. The history, the culture, the landscape… this is a destination that’s not to be missed!

For more on Bosnia & Herzegovina, keep reading:

• BOSNIA & HERZEGOVINA: AN UNEXPECTED JOURNEY THROUGH A COUNTRY I NOW LOVE
• THE MOST INSTAGRAMABLE PLACE IN MOSTAR

Shop my Mostar look:

The post Mostar: Your Next Bucket List Destination appeared first on The Wanderlust Rose.